Our proudest project of late is building a three-wall ceramic tile surround. This will serve as a wall protector/heat shield for our wagon's wood stove. Naturally, neither one of us has ever tried to lay tile--but why should that stop us?! After reading several how-to articles, it suddenly occurs to me--if we can ice a cake, we can tile a wall...
Eager to begin, we measured our areas to be tiled (a 24" x 42" panel directly behind our wood stove, with an 18" x 42" panel on each side). I gathered all the necessary items already on hand, while Siobhan compiled a list of the remaining materials and tools needed. With confidence and a credit card, we headed for Lowe's...
Our Materials List is as follows:
*(1) 2" x 2" pine board (to add to existing framing on left wall of surround)
* 40 russet red majolica tiles, 6" x 6" (decorative, Lowe's, $16.50 per box of 10)
*14 russet red antique majolica tiles, 6" x 6" (decorative, Ebay, var. prices)
* 12 amber antique majolica tiles, 6" x 6" (decorative, Ebay, var. prices)
*90 antique majolica tiles, 1 1/2" x 3 (field)
*10 antique majolica tiles, 1" x 6" (field)
* Imperial Stove Board Wall Spacing Kits (10 screws & spacers per kit)
*(1) 50 lb bag thin-set mortar mix
*(1) pail of ready-mixed grout
*(2) 3' x 5' sheets of Hardi-backer cement backer board
Our Tools List includes :
* inexpensive paint tray with several disposable liners--for mixing mortar (already had on hand)
*tiler's trowel with serrated edge (Kobalt 11-inch v-notch ceramic floor trowel, Lowe's , $9.95)
*clean pint jar and quart jar (for measuring mortar mix and water)
*wooden paint stirring sticks (for mixing mortar)
*grout float(Tile Solutions, Lowe's $9.98)
*(2)large sponges
*utilty pail (for water)
*Nattco 14" tile cutter (Amazon, $24.67)
*4' metal box level or straight edge (already had on hand)
*scoring knife (Blue Hawk, Lowes, $8.98)
*tile spacers, 1/4" (Tavy, Lowe's, $5.18)
*tile spacers, 1/8" (Tavy, Lowe's, $5.18)
Siobhan and I returned home from our shopping trip, and set to work on the back panel...First, we measured and marked the Hardi-Backer board, using the convenient factory-marked grid work. We lay our 48" level along the line to be cut, then ran the scoring tool along the level's edge 5 or 6 times. We slid the board forward until the scored line was on the table's edge, pressed down on the excess board---and NOTHING. It didn't "snap". Or "bend". Or even "give a little". Guess we didn't put enough pressure on the ol' scoring knife. So we try again, scoring the same line about 20 times, and voila! It breaks, leaving a nice clean edge. (Eventually we got the hang of it, and could break one after 4 scores.) We marked and drilled holes where the screws would anchor our tiled panel to the wall. We drilled the holes the same diameter as the screws we'd be using, but then with a larger bit, drilled a recess to allow for the rounded screw heads.
Before going any further, Siobhan and I laid out our tiles on a 2nd sheet of backer board, placing them as we intended them to go on our wall, removing the tiles that would cover the drilled holes. (We even used the plastic tile separators so our measurements would be exact.)
Once we were satisfied with the spacing, we proceeded to mix our thin-set mortar. Using the same ratio of powder to water, we scaled back the mfg's directions to a more moderate amount (!), and got to work...
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| Tiler's trowel with notched edge. |
Using the tiler's trowel, we applied a thin coat of mortar to a section of backer board. Beginning at the lower left corner, we transferred our first row of tiles, keeping the edges even with the backer board's edge and using tile spacers between. After placing each tile, we gently rocked them from side to side, as directed. (Hard to believe, but this really does grab hold of the tile instantly, like some kind of weird suction cup.) We continued transferring tiles, row after row, until our entire board was covered (except for the four tiles that would cover the screw holes).
We allowed the tiles to sit overnight to ensure drying. The following day, Siobhan and I opened our pail of ready-mixed grout and began again. We removed all the tile separators, saving them for later use. Using the grout float, we pressed grout between a row of tiles, then wiped over it with the float's edge. Next, we wiped the row with a dampened sponge, smoothing the grout line and cleaning the tile's surface at the same time. We rinsed the sponge immediately in a pail of water, and then applied grout to the 2nd row. (We found that by doing one row at a time, the grout drips and smears didn't have time to dry on the tile before being wiped clean.)
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| (This is NOT a photo of our tile--just an illustration of HOW we grouted our wall!) |
We continued in this manner until all crevices between tiles and rows were neatly grouted. We allowed the panel to dry overnight. The next day, we carefully placed the panel against the wagon wall, with a 2 x 4 scrap beneath it to raise it 1 1/2" from the bench seat's wooden surface. (There is a 1" minimum distance required with a standard heat shield.) We aligned the panel's pre-drilled holes with the corresponding holes in our wagon's wall and framing. I secured the top of the panel first, working alone in close quarters out of necessity; with a screw and drill in my left hand ( in front of the tiled panel )--and a metal spacer held between thumb and index finger of my right hand (over the top and behind the tile panel, between it and the existing wall), I managed to fasten it securely, leaving the required 1" of space between panel and wall. I secured the remaining two holes in the same way, working from the bottom of the panel. When all 4 screws were secured, I applied a small amount of freshly mixed mortar to the backs of our 4 remaining tiles, and adhered them in place over the recessed screws. We allowed these tiles to dry overnight, and grouted them the next morning. Now the first--and largest--panel in our heat shield is complete...On to the next one!
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| Left and back panels. |
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| Back and right panels. |
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| Tiled floor. |
We measured and cut our backer boards for the two side panels, tiling and securing them in the same manner as the first. The end result is pleasing to the eye, as well as safety-compliant. Siobhan and I then used some of our leftover antique tiles and backer board scraps to build a matching tiled surround, incorporating into its design several pieces of our most treasured wood--salvaged panels and corbels from Bunratty Castle in Ireland. (These are authenticated and approximately 600 years old). This variation of a fireplace surround is to be used as a front for our 3-paneled enclosure, framing our small wood stove and tiled heat shield. The area directly above the tiled surround is enclosed with wooden siding, painted with Tavern Green Milk Paint, and matching the wagon's interior walls. ( This wooden enclosure safely hides our stovepipe from view, while still allowing access if needed. ) A small sturdy mantel built from weathered barn wood ties together the wooden and tiled portions. The mantel is functional as well as aesthetic--its scaled brass railing keeps our antique clock and candlesticks from sliding off when the wagon is in motion. As a final touch, we hung a framed watercolor of Bunratty Castle in a place of honor over the mantel.
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| 600-yr-old hand carved wood corbel. |
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| Antique ceramic tiles framing salvaged carved wood panel from Bunratty Castle, Ireland. (The hand carved oak leaves and acorns are recent additions...) |
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| Completed tile heat shield and wood stove surround. |
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| Framed watercolor of Bunratty Castle, Ireland; antique brass peacock candlesticks. |
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